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Ladder test?
- Thread starter Kwaynem
- Start date
Depends on if I'm hunting or target shooting.
Big game for me is deer & hogs, depending on which rifle I'm using 1-3/4" or less 5 shot groups @100yards are fine where I mostly hunt, hell a pistol or slug/00 12ga would work fine also.
If ranges are going to be 300yrds +/-, I'll be using a scoped rifle I worked up load 1-1/4" or less.
target/varmint rifle(s), I'll start mid load & work up in 1/2gr increaments to max load, whichever loading get best grouping from I'll then ladder load +/- .1 loadings see if +/- grouping size and work toward loadings tightening groups, also bullet seating depth +/- for oal to tighten groups.
I use the same brand cases all trimmed same oal & champhered inside/out, weighed (marked & grouped), primer lots same, even have weighed bullets.
Powder I buy in 1lb bottle, if it works for what I'm loading I'll then buy in 8lb jugs from then on.
ETA:
I still use a beam scale & trickler, I throw a slightly lower load into pan with a hornaday manual powder measure/hopper, then trickle up to set weight.
Big game for me is deer & hogs, depending on which rifle I'm using 1-3/4" or less 5 shot groups @100yards are fine where I mostly hunt, hell a pistol or slug/00 12ga would work fine also.
If ranges are going to be 300yrds +/-, I'll be using a scoped rifle I worked up load 1-1/4" or less.
target/varmint rifle(s), I'll start mid load & work up in 1/2gr increaments to max load, whichever loading get best grouping from I'll then ladder load +/- .1 loadings see if +/- grouping size and work toward loadings tightening groups, also bullet seating depth +/- for oal to tighten groups.
I use the same brand cases all trimmed same oal & champhered inside/out, weighed (marked & grouped), primer lots same, even have weighed bullets.
Powder I buy in 1lb bottle, if it works for what I'm loading I'll then buy in 8lb jugs from then on.
ETA:
I still use a beam scale & trickler, I throw a slightly lower load into pan with a hornaday manual powder measure/hopper, then trickle up to set weight.
Last edited:
I usually run a Satterlee.
"The OCW method focuses on finding the charge weight that produces the tightest groups, while the Ladder Test aims to identify a node of velocity where shots cluster at a consistent point of impact. The Satterlee Method seeks to find a node where velocity converges with changes in charge weight, often indicating a load's optimal performance."
"The OCW method focuses on finding the charge weight that produces the tightest groups, while the Ladder Test aims to identify a node of velocity where shots cluster at a consistent point of impact. The Satterlee Method seeks to find a node where velocity converges with changes in charge weight, often indicating a load's optimal performance."
I always start with a ladder test.
My starting seating depth usually depends on the rifle. I want to start .015"-.020" out of the lands at the same time making sure 50% of the bearing surface is in the neck. If I can stay out of the junction (donut) awesome.
I like to run 10-15 rounds with the book posted max being my 7th or 13th charge, working up in .2 grain increments with my can off. If I find pressure, I stop and know where to stay away from. Keep that speed noted in my bible.
I'll choose 1 or 2 charge weights at that CBTO and load 5. Shoot benched at 300 and see what the group looks like and chrono everything. Very rarely do I spend more than 20 rounds and most of the time (hunting rifles) my initial CBTO is what I end up with.
Use a bullet that is jump insensitive and you will spend even less components and make your development easy. Berger HT or EH, GK's and just about everything Hammer makes works great for this.
Edited to add: Clean first with 5 foulers of your bullet loaded at the bottom of the ladder before you run the ladder. Keep these velocities noted.
My starting seating depth usually depends on the rifle. I want to start .015"-.020" out of the lands at the same time making sure 50% of the bearing surface is in the neck. If I can stay out of the junction (donut) awesome.
I like to run 10-15 rounds with the book posted max being my 7th or 13th charge, working up in .2 grain increments with my can off. If I find pressure, I stop and know where to stay away from. Keep that speed noted in my bible.
I'll choose 1 or 2 charge weights at that CBTO and load 5. Shoot benched at 300 and see what the group looks like and chrono everything. Very rarely do I spend more than 20 rounds and most of the time (hunting rifles) my initial CBTO is what I end up with.
Use a bullet that is jump insensitive and you will spend even less components and make your development easy. Berger HT or EH, GK's and just about everything Hammer makes works great for this.
Edited to add: Clean first with 5 foulers of your bullet loaded at the bottom of the ladder before you run the ladder. Keep these velocities noted.
Ladder test all the way. I look at book max and walk it back .2grs for 10 rounds. Then .2grs past max tell I start finding pressure signs. Somewhere in there will be some good nodes. Bullet at around .02 off lands at first. Just be careful because bullet push back will take up case capacity.
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