LaRue does this for his rifle kits.
I've only done #3, but they're usually laying around from parts/conversions.
AR-10 gar rings
- Thread starter Beautiful Mulberry
- Start date
I've only done #3, but they're usually laying around from parts/conversions.
Ima gonna ruffle some feathers here. Way too much is made over springs in the AR platforms. As long as the spring doesn't stack when the bolt carrier reaches rear travel, and it feeds the next round when going back forward ( more on this in a moment) all is good. You don't need an extra power spring. One of the first tricks in action shooting was to use a carbine spring in a rifle tube. Inertia keeps the bolt closed with weight of the carrier and weight of buffer, not spring tension! Running the carbine spring let the bolt travel faster once unlocked and a bit gentler going forward making for a less bouncy recoil for faster followup shots. Also the gun doesn't tend to dip when the carrier comes slamming forward. Accuracy went up as well as the closing velocity and stress on the round traveling up the feed ramp was reduced, and less cartridge distortion on chambering. Oh sure we were told the guns would batter themselves apart! After 2 barrels worth and no battering I ignored them. I run a light weight carbine spring in my 458 SOCOM, all that spring needs to do is strip the next round into the chamber, nothing more. I run a carbine spring in my 20 AR-10 with rifle tube and buffer as well.
Everytime you ram a cartridge up a feed ramp it bends a little. The heavier the spring, like the extra power flat ground, supper spring the worse this becomes, and yes you can see it in group size. You can even start to see a difference if it was fed from the left or right side of the magazine. Take heart thought, there are two constants in AR world, most rifles are miserably over gassed, and miserably over sprung! In general I run light springs and never over stock weight springs. If you need a super duper spring to make yours run, there may be other problems a foot. And I will note the the heavier the recoil spring the much higher the chance of a slam fire. Matter of fact when I teach carbine classes one of the first things I stress in never drop the bolt on ANY AR unless it is pointed at the ground or a berm. Almost all the times I have witnessed slam fires (well over 16 of the now) 7/8 have been from fancy extra power springs.
Everytime you ram a cartridge up a feed ramp it bends a little. The heavier the spring, like the extra power flat ground, supper spring the worse this becomes, and yes you can see it in group size. You can even start to see a difference if it was fed from the left or right side of the magazine. Take heart thought, there are two constants in AR world, most rifles are miserably over gassed, and miserably over sprung! In general I run light springs and never over stock weight springs. If you need a super duper spring to make yours run, there may be other problems a foot. And I will note the the heavier the recoil spring the much higher the chance of a slam fire. Matter of fact when I teach carbine classes one of the first things I stress in never drop the bolt on ANY AR unless it is pointed at the ground or a berm. Almost all the times I have witnessed slam fires (well over 16 of the now) 7/8 have been from fancy extra power springs.
I’ll just buy the correct parts I need.
I don’t have time for the other. I barely have to to load ammo.
I don’t have time for the other. I barely have to to load ammo.
Wow!
Iv got questions-
So if your running a light spring, what weight buffer are or would you run?
How do you know if the spring is to heavy or heavy enough to slam fire?
You got good info!
Standard weight buffers in those, a gutted buffer in the AR with the aluminum carrier with a carbine spring.
If you drop the bolt on your AR and it goes off without pulling the trigger your spring is on the heavy side
If you drop the bolt on your AR and it goes off without pulling the trigger your spring is on the heavy side
If you build it, they will come.
WRT ARs (AR15 platform) I only use what's standard. Standard carbine buffer, standard spring. I only have a couple H buffers and that because they were rolling around in a box and needed a buffer. Rifles have standard rifle stuff. I had a buddy that used a carbine spring in his and I thought it was a little more violent recoil. I personally don't cut down springs or stretch them out or lighten or add weight to buffers. It makes things complicated for the most part for me and I don't like chasing potential problems I caused.
Even in short barrels, I use the standard buffer and spring and I've never had a problem, even though the rule is H, H2, H3 buffers in SB rifles and pistols I'm told. I never really heard that until I entered the Gun Forum world.
Our guns we ran when I was in had the Crane reliability kits and H or H2 buffers. That was a non-negotiable requirement. On occasion a letter would come down to randomly inspect guns for the correct buffers because they catch someone with an Enedine or had a malfunction in theater because of a light buffer or cutdown spring or something. H and H2 buffers really don't matter much unless you're running an HB, suppressed, and shoot auto or suppressing fire. Those were the solution for bolt bounce and breaking lugs and it fixed it.
Those are not issues in the civilian world and certainly not here. I imagine if you had to do mag dumps at some asshole 1000m away who's shooting at you with a PK to break contact, then sure, H or H2 in your HB suppressed M4. But that's not a thing here...yet.
Pretty much same with an SR - AR10/308 I use what comes with the rifle or mimic it. Except for shorty buffers and standard carbine tubes. I discard those, they are junk to me. Maybe treasure to someone else though. In the past, we went down the path of examining carbine solutions for the M110 and SR25s. At the end of the day, the shorties sucked and the longer A5's worked fine. They didn't have an official carbine (stock) solution as of end of year 2013 when I retired and started supposedly swindling the GOV for all the hundreds of thousands of dollars in the bottomless VA pit, and I still don't think they do. The M110A1 doesn't count - failed program.
I imagine if I decided to tune one up with a full adjustable GB, standard/lightened buffer, and custom spring or something I'd be GTG, but like I said up there
, I don't want to chase problems I may cause. I'm kinda lazy that way. But, I do keep everything how I get it...they don't beat the shit out of me and they don't malfunction and I stay on target.
A shorty 308 buffer is 3.6-3.8oz - same as an H buffer, so there's that.
Even in short barrels, I use the standard buffer and spring and I've never had a problem, even though the rule is H, H2, H3 buffers in SB rifles and pistols I'm told. I never really heard that until I entered the Gun Forum world.
Our guns we ran when I was in had the Crane reliability kits and H or H2 buffers. That was a non-negotiable requirement. On occasion a letter would come down to randomly inspect guns for the correct buffers because they catch someone with an Enedine or had a malfunction in theater because of a light buffer or cutdown spring or something. H and H2 buffers really don't matter much unless you're running an HB, suppressed, and shoot auto or suppressing fire. Those were the solution for bolt bounce and breaking lugs and it fixed it.
Those are not issues in the civilian world and certainly not here. I imagine if you had to do mag dumps at some asshole 1000m away who's shooting at you with a PK to break contact, then sure, H or H2 in your HB suppressed M4. But that's not a thing here...yet.
Pretty much same with an SR - AR10/308 I use what comes with the rifle or mimic it. Except for shorty buffers and standard carbine tubes. I discard those, they are junk to me. Maybe treasure to someone else though. In the past, we went down the path of examining carbine solutions for the M110 and SR25s. At the end of the day, the shorties sucked and the longer A5's worked fine. They didn't have an official carbine (stock) solution as of end of year 2013 when I retired and started supposedly swindling the GOV for all the hundreds of thousands of dollars in the bottomless VA pit, and I still don't think they do. The M110A1 doesn't count - failed program.
I imagine if I decided to tune one up with a full adjustable GB, standard/lightened buffer, and custom spring or something I'd be GTG, but like I said up there
, I don't want to chase problems I may cause. I'm kinda lazy that way. But, I do keep everything how I get it...they don't beat the shit out of me and they don't malfunction and I stay on target. A shorty 308 buffer is 3.6-3.8oz - same as an H buffer, so there's that.
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Agree 100%......except......
Standard AR carrier 11.4 ounces or so. Standard rifle buffer 5.2 ounces, man you gotta go to the gym for all that weight!
JP aluminum carrier 3.76 ounces. Rifle buffer without any weights 2 ounces. Couple that with a good brake and you will have the lightest recoiling, fastest cycling AR you will ever shoot....gotta run a titanium firing pin to prevent slam fires and oil it more often though. And I can attest to reliability!
Also as to carbine tube to A5 I got nothing. I only have one 10 that has a carbine stock. It is a DPMS and it has always run, but if you say the A5 is better since DPMS is gone I have no doubts!
Standard AR carrier 11.4 ounces or so. Standard rifle buffer 5.2 ounces, man you gotta go to the gym for all that weight!
JP aluminum carrier 3.76 ounces. Rifle buffer without any weights 2 ounces. Couple that with a good brake and you will have the lightest recoiling, fastest cycling AR you will ever shoot....gotta run a titanium firing pin to prevent slam fires and oil it more often though. And I can attest to reliability!
Also as to carbine tube to A5 I got nothing. I only have one 10 that has a carbine stock. It is a DPMS and it has always run, but if you say the A5 is better since DPMS is gone I have no doubts!
Ok, I'll give you that. lol
I'll have to try some tinkering though someday.
I thought I saw a video where JP says their Ar10 gas rings are supposed to be "loose" or fail to support the carrier weight if you set it bolt face down on a table.
I have an 18 inch rifle length ar10 with an adjustable gas block. Using a Magpul Moe rifle stock and an Aero rifle buffer kit that I added 2 tungsten weights to bring it up to 7 oz to cut some of the recoil.
I have an 18 inch rifle length ar10 with an adjustable gas block. Using a Magpul Moe rifle stock and an Aero rifle buffer kit that I added 2 tungsten weights to bring it up to 7 oz to cut some of the recoil.
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so why do they do that?
Because they are designed to be loose, the old McFarland continuous ring fit too tight and would cause too much friction after a bit of firing causing malfunctions. JP played around with them and found out they just don't need to be so tight, especially in Aluminum carriers and lightened carriers.
Never mind, reading really is fundefuckinmental…
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What’s the firing pin protrusion measurements? It’s sticking out .040
I’m having a problem of holes being punched in primers. As I’m doing load development this is a common theme.
My friend that was there with his 308 and had a box of Winchester 7.62 m80 ball 147, it put holes in those primers as well.
This is why I’m thinking the FP protruding out to far.
Winchester LRP
Mixed brass
Sierra 168g hpbt
OAL 2.840
IMR 4064
42
42.5
43
43.5
44
44.5
My bolt rifle loves 44.5.
I have no pressure signs in primers.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
I’m having a problem of holes being punched in primers. As I’m doing load development this is a common theme.
My friend that was there with his 308 and had a box of Winchester 7.62 m80 ball 147, it put holes in those primers as well.
This is why I’m thinking the FP protruding out to far.
Winchester LRP
Mixed brass
Sierra 168g hpbt
OAL 2.840
IMR 4064
42
42.5
43
43.5
44
44.5
My bolt rifle loves 44.5.
I have no pressure signs in primers.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
That sounds about right, although I'm not near any AR-10s to measure for sure, but it sounds like the tip of you pin has a burr or has been "flame cut" from a pierced primer. Check the end it should be round and smooth, if it isn't this is what is piercing primers. Take a stone of some 400 wet/dry and round it and smooth it..... Or get a new pin.
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I’ll try the stone first! Thanks
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