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AR-10 gar rings

I just read everything...lol. Anyway, it sounds like it's doing what you want it to do and I wouldn't do anything if it's not giving you a hassle. It all starts when you try to make it better.

If you want to change out your recoil system, weigh your buffer, I bet it's 3.4-3.8 oz which is H buffer weight. Most 308 shorties are about the same weight as an H buffer.
I use an A5 tube and a standard carbine buffer and spring because parts are common and I have a little better recoil than a shorty. I use an H2 buffer and heavier-ish spring because it's an easy button, not because it's the best but it works for me. IMO, the easiest/best recoil solution would be a rifle extension, buffer and spring. They're designed for that and will probably be a lot softer shooting.

@KurtM is right on the gas, most are probably overgassed so I wouldn't mess with that. The numbers I threw up (~.093) apply to rifle gas for an 18"-20", .750" journal, and probably throw on an adjustable GB. I violate this all the time which is why I use an H2 buffer and heavy spring to make up for blowing off stuff already known.

Anyway, if it's working, I'd leave it as is. You can always betterize it later. The one thing I'd change on that whole setup is that teeter-totter scope mount. If you've ever seen them on a slo-mo camera you'll swap it; the shock/vibe frequencies transferred to that scope is like a tuning fork. You can sell it to someone on OSA or donate it to Rickn or something. There are affordable mounts that are way better.
Thank you.
I have 2 of those mounts. I was told they were better for a gas set up, I was told lies.
I’ll go check out the video.
What do you prefer as for a muzzle device other than a suppressor.
This one belongs on my bolt gun.
 
IDK if you'll find a video on the internet, I imagine there is one somewhere.

I won't get into muzzle devices, especially brands. All these companies that have super high-end innovative next-gen next level dial-a-death bullshit that looks like Darth Vader's buttplug just steal each others shit and change holes and slots and just repop it over and over. As long as it keeps your muzzle down and reduces recoil, you're good.

However, if you aren't suppressing your gun, this is the only type (not brand) I'll endorse universally, it works on most anything. lol
 
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IDK if you'll find a video on the internet, I imagine there is one somewhere.

I won't get into muzzle devices, especially brands. All these companies that have super high-end innovative next-gen next level dial-a-death bullshit that looks like Darth Vader's buttplug just steal each others shit and change holes and slots and just repop it over and over. As long as it keeps your muzzle down and reduces recoil, you're good.

However, if you aren't suppressing your gun, this is the only type (not brand) I'll endorse universally, it works on most anything. lol
I used a variety of breaks on my M5 and nothing would work worth a shit to reduce recoil to spot hits. Birdcage or shusher can worked about as good as anything on a lighter weight gas gun
 
I used a variety of breaks on my M5 and nothing would work worth a shit to reduce recoil to spot hits. Birdcage or shusher can worked about as good as anything on a lighter weight gas gun
The break I have on now is the one I use on my R700 308, with my scope set at highest power I can spot pretty easy
It’s the APA fat bastard.
 
Great thread! I’ve got a question about gassing that’s been wriggling in the back of my head for a while.

Have either of you, @JEVapa or @KurtM ever seen someone make a gas port insert? It seems from most of the photos I’ve seen that gas port erosion in the bore begins at a fairly low round count. Has anyone ever put a Stellite plug in like a keen-sert with an oversized port diameter and then metered the bleed off with a tuneable gas block? Seems like it would give a port life equal to the rifling and eliminate a progressive deviation in cyclic dynamics through a moving fluid flow model.
 
I’ve never seen anything like that or a need. I’d think the barrel might need replaced before that but IDK.
It’s right up there with my idea for a zirconium oxide chamber, throat and transitional lead to polygonal rifling. By my reckoning it could significantly extend the barrel life of cartridges where the powder is measured with a shovel.

I know just enough to be a dumbass.
 
I've never heard of an insert, nor do I see it doing anything for longevity. The throat chews out well before gas port erosion becomes any kind of problem.
 
It’s right up there with my idea for a zirconium oxide chamber, throat and transitional lead to polygonal rifling. By my reckoning it could significantly extend the barrel life of cartridges where the powder is measured with a shovel.

I know just enough to be a dumbass.
You may be on to something
 
Beats me,

my armalite got quite a few rounds down the tube and it still shoots like it always has, can't recall if it's chrome lined or not.
 
It's a clinton/ban era 10, it's bcg is tight, took a lot of rounds to break in, still got to keep bcg abundantly lubed,

Put several mag through quick & lube on bcg smokes hahahaha
 
Update-
This is running pretty good. The more I shoot it the better it gets.
Only thing I have to bitch about atm is the adjustable stock. Every time I get off the rifle it rips hair from my face. This ain’t gonna work. I want to go with an A2 stock. Aero has one in the page, if I order this one does it come with everything I need to install?
 
Update-
This is running pretty good. The more I shoot it the better it gets.
Only thing I have to bitch about atm is the adjustable stock. Every time I get off the rifle it rips hair from my face. This ain’t gonna work. I want to go with an A2 stock. Aero has one in the page, if I order this one does it come with everything I need to install?
I think an A1 might be a better choice. It’s an inch shorter and tends to be more suited for a scope. The extension, spring, and buffer are the same as an A2.
Either way you go, you’ll need a whole assembly which is the stock, rifle extension, rifle length spring, and rifle buffer. The ad is just the stock.
Don’t forget antiseize or moly di grease on the threads. Torque to 35-39 ft lbs
 
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the A1 stock for AR15 the same as AR308?
Some webpages are saying it is and other are saying it’s not
 
Yes the A1/ A2 buffer tube are the same length for AR-10 and AR-15. WARNING, WARNING, WARNING!!! if you go with an A1 stock (all my AR-10s have an A1 Stock) you have to use the shorter A1 stock screw, you can't use the one for a A2. You will also need an AR-10 rifle length buffer as the buffers are different from AR-10 and AR-15
 
I should have said the difference between anAR10/308 and AR15, but I assume a lot. If not for Kurt pointing it out, you'd've done the right thing the wrong way. They have kits for them separate from the stock. Google "AR10 rifle length buffer kit" and you get a lot of hits to choose from.
A1 vs A2, Tube is same.

IMG_2195.jpeg

Here's a good diagram I dug up after Kurt said it. I didn't feel like digging through boxes. The 34-coil spring is still rifle length. It's not a stretched-out carbine spring. Don't do that.

Rifle_Length_Buffer_Systems_Whats_the_Difference_AR15_v_AR10__51182.jpg
 
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Several ways to do this.
1 Cut a Delrin spacer to make up the length between carbine and rifle tubes and run your present spring and carbine buffer.
2 Cut down an AR-15 rifle buffer to the length of an AR-10 buffer and put the weights and buffer back on, and get AR-10 spring.
3 buy correct buffer and AR-10 spring.
I've done 1 and 2, never #3
 
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